I don’t really know where nor how to start this review because Dior has just pulled off a really strong show, creating a silhouette that will be seen and worn by all in the next year.
First and foremost, you might ask yourself « why did Dior do a show in Scotland? » Mr Dior actually came here for the first time back in 1955 to present his collection at the Gleneagles Hotel and this time round Maria Grazia Chiuri paid tribute to the heritage and history of Scotland whilst collaborating with multiple Scottish artisans from Harris Tweed to Johnstons of Elgin. This collection intertwined the strong and rich history of the Dior house codes in a very present manner.
If you’re reading this but do not go the runway shows you then I’ll let you on to a little secret: when you go to a show you usually immediately know the minute the first model comes out onto the runway if the collection is going to be a hit. How do you figure it out ? It’s a mixture between the pace, the music, the beat, the hair, the makeup and of course, the clothes.
The Dior Cruise 25 show did not disappoint. It was good. It was actually (how we would say in basic words) ‘very cool’.
It felt like watching an army of proud and strong female soldiers marching through the dreamy gardens. Fom the tartan looks that seemed to be blankets wrapped over one’s body, to the knee high socks, the punky mermaid style hair, the incredible grungy chokers, the mixture of lace combined with armour like (flat) boots and the tartan kilts, everything fell into place.
The show location at the Drummond Castle Gardens (Google it!) felt like a modern Bridgerton meets Tudor Period and we were transported very early on because the whole show felt organic, unforced upon and in its element.
It was a collection that mixed gothic and romantic themes, it felt like a Tumblr 2010 revival (in a very very good way) - there were so many references to pick and mix from. One of the starting points for Maria Grazia Chiuri and her team was Mary Queen of Scots, the Queen of the Queens, who had so much courage, dignity and class. A woman most of us should take example on nowadays. She never felt defeated, even in the worst of times.
The Dior woman under Maria Grazia Chiuri only wears flat shoes or low heels and do you know why?
Because the Dior woman is dressed to be comfortable: she’s free, she moves, she’s not contrived. That’s a strong heritage that keeps on being pushed through season after season.
Fun data fact : Dior is one of the top three most searched for brands by mass market designers on Tagwalk (graph below based on over 4 million searches on Tagwalk). Why is this piece of information important ? Because I can guarantee you that this Cruise 25 show will influence and inspire the looks worn in then streets from rebellious teenagers to more strong mature women for the next 12-18 months.
Maria Grazia’s job is done- and well done on top of that. As a luxury brand designer, when your silhouettes get taken down into the streets and you’ve managed to influence and turn around a whole society that was ladylike and delicately strong into an elegant but grungy (border punky) woman that transpires power and freedom, then you know you’ve achieved something good.
Second fun data fact: when Maria Grazia did slogan tee-shirts back in Spring/Summer 17 (We are all feminists) well the following Spring/Summer 18 , there was in increase of 28% of slogan tee-shirts seen in all of the runway collections. Coincidence? No.
Last question: where can I find myself a kilt and a pearl choker? I need it for my September rentrée. But I just heard it's coming out end of November…
