At Tagwalk, Saint Laurent is a really important brand. Over the past ten years of analyzing data, we’ve seen that the biggest trend catalyst is consistently them.
We know that Anthony Vaccarello’s mood and silhouettes inspire thousands of more mass-market brands, from the attitude they inject into their collections to the colors and the shapes. Most trends start with Saint Laurent, and then designers pick and mix elsewhere.
This season, Saint Laurent closed the first day of Paris Fashion Week at their now-legendary Trocadéro location, which sits opposite the Eiffel Tower. The YSL sign in hydrangeas already hinted at an ’80s vibe, but even before the show began, their front row was captivating: a masterclass for any brand.
All of them arrived as if they were in a runway show themselves, looking so desirable you almost forgot clothes could do that. It wasn’t about their worldwide fame (team Conrad!), but about the choices of celebrities: The OGs like Charlotte Rampling, Catherine Deneuve, Madonna, Erin Wasson, and the cool kids like Amelia Gray, Alexa Chung, and Zoë Kravitz all embodied the brand so perfectly that there was already a huge sense of allure before a single look hit the runway.
This week, Anthony Vaccarello is “up against,” (so to speak) the highly anticipated debuts of Jonathan Anderson’s womenswear collection at Dior and Matthieu Blazy’s first collection at Chanel. Yet the Saint Laurent show over-delivered.
It unfolded in three chapters:
1980s-inspired leather pencil skirts and oversized leather jackets
Color-washed, sheer oversized coats
Airy ballgowns that evoked a sense of total freedom
Vaccarello’s strength lies not just in the designs, but in the proportions and accessories: the oversized XXL earrings and necklaces, incredibly feminine and contrasted with the rugged, oversized XXL leather jackets. It’s everything a woman wants: power, comfort, sophistication.
I always say: there’s New York Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week… and then there’s Paris Fashion Week. And within Paris Fashion Week, there’s Saint Laurent.
