Burberry’s Spring/Summer 25 show had some much better pieces and styling with for example a great oversized khaki parka with a pink sparkly mini dress - it felt very Glastonbury 2000 in Kate Moss’s era and that’s cool but then, well, there was absolutely no coherence in the show - it went from that military style cropped “beigy” jacket to an orange deconstructed dresse and I keep on asking myself : why are there so many directions ? I wish someone had stepped into the creative process to accompany Daniel Lee and his team into editing a tighter collection with a clearer vision.
Another thing that needs attention at Burberry is that the casting is great: it’s got the old guard, the new guard and diversity however the hair and makeup lack that ooomph that make you want to embody that trend and that coolness. The models aren’t glowing and I get that it’s meant to represent a natural looking Brit girl but in a sense the teams need to make sure that his runway shows have the glam and that the campaigns have the heritage (which they have. They shot the latest campaign with great British faces up in Cumbria.)
Burberry has gone from Bailey, to Tisci to Lee and all three designers have a completely different vision and approach to the brand and it’s therefore a little lost in translation.
However, this show definitely moved away from all of the khaki and into way better and more confident silhouettes which was a really nice change for Lee and made us feel like he might be getting it under control, slowly but surely
