There is something about Burberry that almost feels kind of untouched and mythical.

Fun fact: on my way to London, I bumped into Lou Doillon on the Eurostar, effortlessly cool as always and heading to the same show as I was.

If she is part of the Burberry orbit this season, you know the vibe will be right. Every season Burberry kind of picks people who genuinely fit their DNA. And I'm not cool enough to know all of them, but I'm aware enough to know they look great in Burberry and fit the scene.

Burberry always has a tricky balance to strike. The trench coat heritage is so strong that you cannot ignore it. People expect the respect for the outdoorsy British roots. At the same time, if you lean only on that, the criticism comes fast that nothing is moving forward. It is genuinely a difficult equation every season.

Ooomph we need to talk about the coats this season. The leather, the fur, come to think of it, the fringed glitter on the fur, the ruffled collar that showed skin.

It was way more authoritative, and I think that's a good thing. I want to be guided by Burberry. I want Daniel Lee to tell me what I should be wearing next season.

I particularly liked how checks and tartans came back in a subtler way, not too in my face that I don't want to see it anymore but also not totally absent that I forget where I am.

The leather was an interesting move too. We usually associate leather more with certain French houses, not instinctively with Burberry, yet it elevates the brand nicely.

Casting, hair and make up were excellent. Edie Campbell, Romeo Beckham to name a few.

Now I want to see consistency. The campaigns are getting stronger, the energy is building, and it would be great to see the same clarity carry into summer.

If Daniel Lee keeps refining this direction season after season, Burberry could really hit a powerful stride year round.